Wednesday, August 1, 2007

Ferrari tastes on a Volkswagen budget


Get your bubble on: Domaine Chandon's usually staid etoile restaurant is attracting some hipsters on a budget during Bubble Hour, featuring half off Chandon wine and $5 sparkling cocktails from 6-7 pm. Thursday nights throughout August, they'll be offering swing dance lessons for just $10 from 7 to 8pm and a live DJ. One California Drive, Yountville.

All you can eat sushi? Sonoma foodie Kathleen Hill reports in the Sonoma Sun that Shiso Restaurant will offer an all-you-can-eat dinner every Wednesday night from 6pm to 9pm. For $30, you've got one hour to cram as much food into your piehole as you'd like (though there is a limited menu). At an upscale sushi house like Ed Metcalfe's (who plans to open a steakhouse at the SoCo airport this month), that's quite a deal. 522 Broadway, Sonoma.

Locals night at Dry Creek Kitchen: Charlie Palmer's Healdsburg outpost offers up a three course tasting menu Monday through Thursday for $30, $45 with wine. 25 Matheson St, Healdsburg.

Applewood Inn, which received a recent Michelin nod, serves up high-end Cal-Ital dishes from Chef Brian Anderson Tuesday through Thursday on their bistro menu. Frequented by romance-seeking tourists on the weekend, the Guerneville spa/hideaway is a nice little getaway for us locals during the busy workweek. Reservations recommended 13555 Highway 116, Guerneville.

Plus...
Seems Santa Rosa wasn't quite ready for Nirvana's high-concept Indian fusion. The restaurant has reportedly closed. Though BiteClub was initially enthusiastic about the food, continued problems with service and consistency--as well some fairly rabid counter-advertising by nearby Sizzling Tandoor--seem to have doomed the restaurant.

Monday, July 30, 2007

Do duck testicles make you green?


The next time Incanto's Chris Cosentino asks me if I want to watch him break down a whole pig--nose-to-tail--I swear I'm going to take him up on it. One of my biggest foodie regrets, in fact, was passing by the chance to see this offalist at work, elbow-deep in hog.

Because while most of us are a bit squeamish about the seemingly nasty bits of animal left behind after the prime bits of meat have been cut away, Cosentino doesn't flinch. In fact, SF's Manic Organ-ic prizes every usable bit of the animal, sautéing, frying and steaming blood, brains, and, uh, even duck testicles in ways not often seen in the US (at least in the last 75 years or so).

Call it gross. Call it brilliant. Call it a whole new take on sustainability.

And, call it recognized. Cosentino, along with fellow offal-lover Fergus Henderson (sometimes hailed as the father of the organ meats resurgence) of London's St. John Restaurant and were both recognized as top Green Chefs by the environmentally-conscious blog, Grist.com.

It's also a bit of a radical change in thinking. Serious carnivores are rarely hailed by the mostly veggie-centric ecorati. To their defense, animals do take a serious bit of resources to raise, slaughter and process. But when sustainability is part of the total equation--from birth to table--even many hard-core vegetarians are rethinking their stance. In fact, it has recently been reported that flexitarianism "former vegetarians who eat the occasional sausage or hamburger "is a new trend among the formerly meatless. Some credit the influx of more organic, sustainable, humane practices into meat processing for the change.

So, while Alice Waters, Dan Barber and notable French vegetable enthusiast Alain Passard remain usual suspects on "green chef" lists, it's refreshing to see folks like Cosentino and Henderson's commitment to waste-less meat eating lauded.

Even if it isn't your cup of blood pudding.

Check out the other Green Chefs, including Pacific Grove's Ted Walter and Manresa's David Kinch, were nominated by Grist.org

In other news: Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations kicks off its new season tonight (7/30) on the Travel Channel.

Tuesday, July 24, 2007

SolBar: Spa-side dining

There’s nothing like watching thin, rich, tan people frolicking poolside from your dinner table to inspire a little caloric restraint.

Then again, if you’re anything like me, the sight of all that taut skin inspires an order of beef short ribs with polenta, a peach tart, some flatbread and a strawberry mojito. Oh, and uh, how is that potato gnocchi, anyway?


But SolBar isn’t here to be judgmental about your food choices. Tucked inside the new Solage spa compound in Calistoga, this ultra-trendy, ultra-minimalist (think Press, FARM and pretty much anything built in Napa in the last three years) restaurant features a menu politely divided into two parts: A Continental Divide, so to speak, of healthy, calorie-conscious spa food on the left and the hearty, carb and fat-loaded stuff on the right. You know, your choice.

Hey wait a minute. I feel judged.

Best bet is to wander back and forth over the chasm. Though the menu changes up according to season and availability, a summer favorite is the chilled carrot ginger soup with radish, avocado and spearmint ($7), which despite its glow is a cold snap of refreshing, sweet carrots and crunchy radishes from the healthy left side of the menu. If you’re in a sharing mood, the hearth-baked sea salt flat bread served with three dips: Tzatziki (yogurt and cucumber sauce), a pesto-like salsa verde (lemon, basil, cilantro) and a brilliant red olive tapenade ($8, sorry not from the healthy side though I’ll give you a pass on this. Come on its yogurt.). Also worth a peek are the char sui bao, barbequed pork buns ($10, nope fattening).

Entrees range from shrimp and vegetable salad with water chestnuts, fennel and orange ginger vinaigrette to chicken breast with brown rice, ajo blanco and red grapes (yes, you’re so good!) to Petrale sole with lemon garlic risotto, a double cheeseburger with fried pickles (what’s with fried pickles all the sudden?) and beef short ribs with organic polenta, watercress and thyme-roasted onions (from the husky side of the menu). Yeah. Live a little and experience what may be some of the best polenta I’ve ever had. In other words, it actually had flavor--and lots of it. The ribs are marinated for two days and fall apart at the sight of a fork. I could have done without the goofy green watercress, however. Leave it for the salad eaters.

For dessert, the Frog Hollow Farms peach galette with sour cherries and lavender honey mascarpone ($8) was a warm after dinner hug (though the heavy-handed crust was left behind.) Valrhona chocolate pudding with toasted marshmallows and graham crackers is a cute nod to s’mores—best enjoyed by the open fireplace or flaming fountain outside.

Trying to manage the ying-yang desires of the spa-set is a tall order for Chef Brandon Sharp, a former sous chef at SF’s Gary Danko and French Laundry alum. And aside from some lackluster plating and distracted service Sharp’s clearly working hard to attain a sense of inner balance and harmony on both sides of the menu. It’s up to you to decide where your true bliss lies.

If you go: Don’t miss a poolside seat with exotic signature cocktails like the Strawberry Ginger Mojito (rum, strawberry puree, mint and fresh ginger); Brasilian (Oronoco oak aged-rum and fresh lime juice) or blood orange Sidecar with Martell Cognac, blood orange puree and fresh lemon juice ($11).

SolBar at Solage: Open to the public daily for lunch and dinner. 755 Silverado Trail, Calistoga, 866-942 7442.

Monday, July 23, 2007

Meet the Bourbonians


It's not often you meet a Kentucky Colonel. Let alone three at one sitting--and not a bucket of fried chicken in sight.

Gathered at the behest of local bourbon connoisseur and Straightbourbon.com webmaster Jim Butler, folks from around the globe (and closer to home) trek to Santa Rosa each year to meet up with similarly passionate drinkers to talk bourbon, share bourbon, sip bourbon, admire bourbon, smoke a stogie or two and then get back to all things bourbon. These are serious bourbonians. Including--I kid you not--several who've been tapped as real-life Kentucky Colonels for their dedication to the state's righteous brew. (Most wear t-shirts and jeans instead of white suits, however.)

Turns out this was the weekend for the big meet up in Santa Rosa and the bourbon crew counted some 15 states and several countries among those represented at the Bourbon Fest. And somehow BiteClub got invited. Mostly because I accidentally crashed their pre-party on Friday night while making a beeline for a Jack and Coke.

Now in case, like me, you're a little rusty on the difference between whisky and bourbon, the kindly StraightBourbon.com folks are happy to explain it while you try not to cough and choke on your first shot of 141 proof bourbon. Unlike whisky, there are some rather stringent requirements on what can and can't be labeled bourbon. Though they share some similar qualities, bourbon must be made with a minimum of 51 percent corn (most distillers use 65 to 75 percent corn, according to the website) and bourbon must be aged for a minimum of two years in new, white oak barrels that have been charred. Nothing can be added at bottling to enhance flavor, add sweetness or alter color.

A few other interesting facts gleaned while hobnobbing with the Bourbons: Bourbon is a uniquely American drink and no other country has license to create "bourbon" "kind of like the whole flap about sparkling wine makers not using the term "champagne". In addition, Bourbon doesn't really change or age (like wine) after it's bottled. So at the party, there were more than a few bottles that dated back 20 or 30 years "a real treat to crack open those old time tax tabs.

So, here's the big question: Is Jack Daniel's bourbon? Nope, though the process is similar, Daniel's uses a special process of filtering that makes it straight-up whisky. Not that anyone's complaining. It just isn't bourbon. But mention Scotch and you'd think I'd just brought a bottle of Hearty Burgundy to a dinner with Robert Parker Jr. Apparently there's no love-loss between Scotch-drinkers and Bourbonians.

To find out why, check out Jim's website,straighbourbon.com for a FAQ, forums and plenty of discussion about all thinks mashed, filtered, distilled and sipped. Just don't mention Scotch.

BOURBON FOR WINE DRINKERS: Bourbon drinkers from Wine Country were excited about a new Woodford Reserve Bourbon that is "finished" for several months in Chardonnay barrels from Sonoma Cutrer winery after aging in new oak. The bourbon, which is rumored to be released shortly will retail for $89.99 and only 900 cases are being produced.

Thursday, July 19, 2007

Odyssey: Hidden Windsor spot won't
stay secret long


Chefs are a notoriously fickle bunch to feed. Anyone worth their whites can sniff out undercooked pasta at 100 yards and won't hesitate to dress down a fellow cook (usually behind their back) with devastating candor if the fries are frozen or the spinach wilted. Suffice to say it's not just their knives that are razor sharp.


So, when word gets out that local toques have been frequenting Windsor's new Odyssey Restaurant after-hours, my foodie feelers start tingling. When I find out that the chef, Rudy Mihall, cut his teeth at Gramercy Tavern, spent two years in Italy and, according to an email from Jeff Mall "won't be under the radar much longer", my wheels are pretty much smoking in the rush to get there.

Nestled into the tiny space formerly occupied by L'Assiette, Odyssey has just 10 tables and a long, glowing bar that dominates the space. There's little room to maneuver, but proximity can have its benefits--like the ability to chum up to your neighbors and pilfer a little nibble from their plate. Not that I'm suggesting you do this uninvited. But when a ridiculously huge foie gras burger comes to the table, the urge is, well, irresistible.

In the six weeks since opening, Odyssey has breezed past the nervous tension and bungling that are the hallmark of first-timers and settled comfortably into wowing the locals. Mihall has clearly mastered the confines of his small kitchen (allowing more time for his creative coiffures) while friend and SF restaurateur Tom Gordon manages the front of the house.

The menu changes up daily, with house favorites like the pizza, burger and beet tartare as staples. Despite not having a wood-fired oven, Mihall cranks out impossibly thin and crispy pizzas, topped with arugula, pancetta and fresh mozzarella ($13-$15). And no, he won't tell you the secret to how he makes them. Starters show off Mihall's flair for the dramatic: Beet tartare ($10) with sunflower greens is a jewel-toned vision almost too pretty to eat and chilled pea soup with poached lobster (with, get this, pickled ramps) is packed with bits of meat that make its $12 price tag seem a bargain.

Capping off the food frenzy, you'll want to check out the foie gras burger ($21), if just to say you've done it. It's a layer upon layer of flavor (and cholesterol): black truffles, braised short ribs and foie gras encased by beef sirloin. It's not an easy thing to pull off--keeping the exterior from drying out completely, while making sure the inside isn't blood raw. Mihall gets it as close to right as anyone possibly could, searing the outside and finishing the whole affair in the oven. Roasted tomatoes and a brioche bun just add to the dedadence. Thing is, the burger's far too large to actually fit in your mouth, so just split one round the table. I don't want to be responsible for any of you keeling over in coronary arrest if you brave it alone.

Dessert hasn't quite worked itself out yet. Considering the sweet teeth of local clientele and late(ish) hours, we'll look forward to some creativity in this department to cap off the meal. No worries. Just ask the chef sitting at the end of the bar for a few ideas.

If you go: The spot is a little hard to find, hidden in a far corner of the Town Green and signage is minimal. Considering the buzz, you may want to call ahead for reservations. The restaurant has a considerable wine list featuring many local wines, in addition to a large selection of Italian reds and whites.

Odyssey Restaurant, 426 Emily Rose, Circle, Windsor, 707.836.7600. Open Tuesday through Thursday, 5pm to 10pm; Friday and Saturday, 5pm to 11pm.

Get Buzzed: Summer's all about honey booze


Just in time for a mass bee die-off, honey has become the hottest alcohol flavoring of the year. Seems whatever apiaries are left will be putting in some serious overtime.

No longer relegated to Renaissance Fairs, mead (an ancient recipe for wine made with honey instead of grapes) is among the most popular bee brews, with companies like Colorado's Medovina refining the process to create high-end wines ranging from super sweet to off-dry sippers perfect for a late summer evening. Closer to home Enat Winery in Oakland brews Ethiopian mead called tej using an old family recipe. But because of its relative simplicity to make and similarity to beer brewing, local honey purveyors say there are dozens of home mead makers throughout the county cooking up their own batches.

More accessible to honey, uh, newbees are honey beers and ciders. Near Graton, Ace Cider makes Apple Honey Cider using Gibson's Golden Wildflower Honey from Sonoma County. Claiming to be the first commercially produced in California, the cider is a mix of 5% honey and 95% Sonoma apple juice. Cider Master Lou Markarian says that despite its sweet honey taste, the cider is balanced by a tart acidity from the apples.

Though they only brew about 5,000 gallons of the honey cider a year (it's an acquired taste, reportedly), Ace uses a whopping 150 gallons of honey per year. That's about a year's production for two hives, according to the San Francisco Bee Keeper's Association. The honey cider is available on tap at Ace Pub, as well as in bottles at select Whole Foods, Bevmo, Costco and Trader Joe's.

While at the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen, BiteClub was two-fisting Blue Moon Honey Moon Summer Ale, which marries flavors of orange peel and organic honey with a light, crisp beer. A winner at the 2007 American Beer Festival, it's available through BevMo.com.

Still can't get enough of the sweet stuff? Check out Matrioshka Honey Vodka, Modern Spirit Grapefruit Honey Vodka or Wild Turkey American Honey Liqueur which can also be found through BevMo. Whisky mead is available from Friary Vintners in the UK.

But no matter what your drink, this summer you're in for a serious buzz.

Find out more:
- Create your own mead
-San Francisco Beekeeper's Association
- Ace Cider
-Medovina
- Mead Resource Guide

Wednesday, July 18, 2007

Battle of the Chefs: Thirty minutes and 10 mystery ingredients: Allez cuisine!


If you've ever watched Iron Chef, you'll pretty much get the premise of the recent Steel Chef cook-off during Sonoma Showcase last weekend--throw a good-natured group of chefs into an impossibly stressful cooking situation in front of an audience; keep the key ingredients a mystery until the last second; set the timer for 30 minutes (30 minutes less than the real Iron Chef) and then judge the outcome. Publicly.

Chosen by SRJC's Culinary Arts Director Michael Salinger, the mystery foods for round one included gulf shrimp, pork loin, figs, nectarines, corn, Andouille sausage cherry tomatoes and fresh pasta. For the championship round, the bag nicluded rack of lamb, loin of lamb,squash, tomatoes, Santa Rosa plums, fingerling potatoes, portabella mushrooms and Belgian endive.


I'm always surprised, frankly, that there aren't more mental breakdowns during these things. Because if you threw a bag of random ingredients at me with 30 minutes on the clock I'd probably start crying hysterically.

But these are pros. First round competition pitted
Jack Mitchell of Sassafras Restaurant against Jeff Mall of Zin Restaurant. Using the first mystery bag, Mall swayed the judges with an impromptu dish of shrimp and grits, pork loin with peppers and pinot sauce and the sliced fruit.

"I barely had time to get the pork on the plate. I didn't have time to slice it, and the judges were eating with plastic forks and knives. I honestly thought Jack had won," Mall said.

Facing off in the championship round against
Janine Falvo of Carneros Bistro (who had topped Jeffrey Madura of John Ash & Co.), Mall did a 'Ratatouille' inspired, uh, ratatouille. But not just ratatouille--curry rubbed rack of lamb, ratatouille, grilled endive and a pinot noir sauce with a Remy Pez dispenser garnish. "It was the fastest 20 minutes of my life," says Mall, who ultimately won the coveted Steel Chef title.

Never doubt the power of Pez. Congrats, Jeff.



Want to know how how he did it? Mall dishes on his dishes.

For my first dish, I did shrimp and grits. I took the corn shucked it, cooked it in some boiling water, took the kernels off the cob and added the cob back to the water to make a corn stock. I then stirred in polenta, I know -not really grits into the corn stock to make grits. I also added cream, butter, salt and the corn kernels. I rendered out the sausage and sautéed the shrimp in the fat with some tomatoes, peppers and white wine, and added just a touch more cream. I took the pork loin and pan roasted it, I also added some red peppers and Anaheim and jalapeno peppers I had diced. I then added some fresh figs and sliced nectarines. Deglazed with pinot noir and served over some fresh pasta.

For the championship battle I rubbed the rack with curry powder, salt and olive oil and grilled it. I dropped the potatoes in boiling water to cook half way, pulled them out and sliced them and threw them into the oven with butter and salt to roast. Grilled the lamb loin, endive and portabella mushroom. Threw the plums in a blender with some port wine and salt. Sautéed the squash with onion, garlic and the tomatoes. Reduced some pinot noir with chicken stock and balsamic vinegar. My first dish was the curry rubbed rack of lamb with ratatouille, grilled endive and a pinot noir sauce. I did not have eggplant, so I could not make a real ratatouille. I did have a 'Remy' Pez Dispenser from the movie ratatouille in my pocket. I used 'Remy' as a garnish. For the second dish I served the lamb loin with the roasted fingerlings, grilled portabellas and Plum Port sauce.